Costa Rica's Caribbean Charm
The scents of coconut curried crayfish envelope a family-run restaurant in Tortuguero; residents of Limon practice dances for their yearly Carnaval celebration; a sing-song Patois fills the streets of Cahuita and Puerto Viejo; and a Bribri woman creates artisan chocolate delicacies from organic cacao. This is Costa Rica's Caribbean: a bewitching region home to some of the country's most unique cultural treasures.
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The province of Limon encompasses Costa Rica's entire eastern coast, following the Caribbean Sea from the border with Nicaragua south to Panama, stretching inland to the Talamanca Mountains. Housing varied ecosystems from black-sand beaches to virgin jungle, this region lures visitors with its laid-back vibe and Afro-Caribbean roots, present in daily life.
Approximately one-third of Limon's population is black; most are descendants of Jamaican and Caribbean migrants who worked coconut and banana plantations, and laid railroad tracks during the 1800's. Today, more than 100,000 residents speak Limonese Creole, a lilting Jamaican Patois with English roots.
The region's Afro-Caribbean influences are perhaps most evident in the cuisine. Coconut milk infuses many dishes, from the local version of rice and beans to rondon – a rich stew made with root vegetables and whatever seafood the chef has on hand: crab, fish, shrimp, octopus, or mussels. Authentic jerk chicken prepared with allspice and scotch bonnet peppers can be found on street vendor grills, and slow-cooked curries are a staple on restaurant menus.
Limon province is home to two of Costa Rica's largest indigenous populations, the Bribri and Cabecar, who live on autonomous tribal lands they have opened to the public. Cultural excursions to the reserves explore traditional lifestyles, and treat guests to interesting tidbits like the fact that only Bribri women are taught the ancient art of roof thatching. Learn about the practical uses of medicinal plants or indulge in an artisan chocolate tour, which explains the history of cacao and the sweet fruit's cultural significance.
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